A Culinary Experience at Cracco in Galleria: A Taste of Milan’s Traditions with a Modern Twist

Youtuber: Francesco Zini

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@FrancescoZini

Restaurant: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vhoi4cR72rniMosy9

TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187849-d13563136-Reviews-Ristorante_Cracco-Milan_Lombardy.html?m=69573

Google Maps:

Located in the heart of Milan, inside the iconic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, is Carlo Cracco’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Cracco in Galleria. If you’ve heard of Carlo Cracco, you’re probably familiar with his legacy as a disciple of the legendary Gualtiero Marchesi and his fame as a judge on MasterChef Italia. Today, I’m here to experience his dishes firsthand and discover if it truly lives up to the hype.

Why Cracco’s Cuisine?

While many might associate Cracco with avant-garde innovation, his approach to cooking is far more about refining and updating traditional Italian flavors. The menu isn’t focused solely on creating something completely new, but rather on reviving almost forgotten classics and elevating them to modern standards. Even though Cracco no longer directly oversees the kitchen—Luca Sacchi now leads the brigade—the philosophy behind the dishes remains rooted in Italy’s rich culinary heritage.

A Humbling Start

I first visited this restaurant by accident a couple of years ago when I mistakenly thought I was booking a casual pizza spot. What ended up being a luxurious dining experience, with an unexpectedly hefty price tag of €200 for lunch, left me intrigued about the restaurant. But today, I’m back with a purpose—to immerse myself in Cracco’s reinterpretation of classic Italian cuisine.

The Venue

The restaurant itself is a stunning space within the Galleria, occupying an entire building. The location alone contributes to the experience, with its elegant atmosphere and views of the bustling square. Upon entering, I’m greeted with a classic water menu—though I have to admit, I’m a little tempted by the €30 bottle of water (perhaps another time). The warm rose-scented napkin is a lovely touch, signaling the start of something special.

The Menu As I begin my tasting journey, I’m struck by the playful yet refined take on traditional Italian dishes. The first course, Insalata Russa Caramellata, a playful reimagining of the classic Russian salad, is served as a sandwich-like bite with caramelized sugar, capers, mayonnaise, carrots, peas, and potatoes. It's a dish that has history, created almost 20 years ago as a challenge to improve upon a family recipe. It’s immediately clear why it’s a signature dish: the sweetness of the sugar and the crunch of the capers create a unique balance with the creamy texture of the potatoes. It’s a dish to be eaten with your hands, and I find myself savoring every bite.

Next, I’m served a pan brioche terrine with veal tongue, black truffle, and pear. This dish takes inspiration from the traditional boiled meats of Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, enhanced by a mustard cream. The flavors are bold, with the mustard adding an intense, savory contrast to the slightly sweet pear. While the pan brioche felt a bit dry, the overall flavor profile was quite satisfying.

A Traditional Twist

The next dish, crocchetta stuffed with frog legs, mascarpone cream, crispy pork skin, and basmati rice, continues the theme of merging tradition with innovation. The frog legs are delicately pan-fried, and while the frog meat itself doesn’t stand out as the star, the crispy coating and the rich broth beneath bring depth to the dish.

As I move through the courses, I’m introduced to a series of creative reimaginings of classic Italian fare. One standout is an insalata di crostacei (seafood salad) that includes shrimp, scampi, and a refreshing combination of apple, celery, and carrot. The dish is topped with a Crodino gelatin that bursts with the familiar taste of a classic cocktail sauce, adding a nostalgic touch to the modern interpretation of this seafood dish.

Simplicity with Depth

One of the more striking dishes is a soiola (sole) roll, filled with sole meat and topped with a rapini sauce. The delicate texture of the sole contrasts beautifully with the bitterness of the rapini, offering a dish that’s both simple and satisfying. Accompanying the dish are hand-pulled grissini, whose slightly sweet, biscuity flavor adds a unique twist to the meal.

Following this, I’m treated to a rich and creamy Vignarola—a springtime vegetable medley from central Italy. The combination of artichokes, asparagus, and peas, dressed in crispy guanciale and butter, creates a perfect harmony of flavors. The addition of guanciale elevates the vegetables, giving them a savory depth that lingers on the palate.

Innovation Meets Tradition

Another memorable course is a delicate pasta fresca—thin sheets of pasta filled with a butter sauce made from marinated egg yolk, asparagus puree, and jasmine oil. The dish’s simplicity is deceptive, as the flavors of the marinated yolk and the floral jasmine oil create a complex, layered experience. The texture of the pasta is perfect, almost melting in your mouth as you savor the creamy, savory filling.

Then comes the quail, a dish inspired by Persian cuisine. The quail is stuffed with risotto, accompanied by a spinach and anise cream, and finished with a reduction made from parsley stems and lemon zest. The quail is perfectly cooked, tender, and flavorful, with the aromatic spices reminding me of the rich culinary traditions of the Middle East.

Desserts to Remember

For dessert, I’m treated to a delicate rhubarb sorbet with strawberries and a soft, steamed bun infused with elderflower. The sweetness of the strawberries contrasts beautifully with the slight acidity of the rhubarb, and the bun, while not overly sweet, adds a light, airy finish to the meal.

Final Thoughts

Dining at Cracco in Galleria is not just about eating; it’s an experience. Each dish offers a fresh take on Italian tradition, with Cracco and his team expertly blending the old and the new. While not every dish is groundbreaking in its innovation, the meal as a whole is a thoughtful exploration of Italian culinary history.

As I finish the meal, I reflect on the experience. It’s clear that Cracco’s kitchen isn’t just about high-end dining—it’s about giving new life to forgotten Italian classics, presented in a way that is both respectful and modern. For €250, the meal was worth every penny, especially considering the location and the Michelin-starred quality of the food.

If you’re in Milan and looking for an unforgettable culinary experience, Cracco in Galleria is definitely worth a visit. It’s a place where tradition meets innovation, and every dish tells a story.

The Verdict:

Cracco’s restaurant in the Galleria offers a unique culinary journey that is both nostalgic and innovative. It’s not just about eating; it’s about experiencing Italian cuisine through a new lens. If you’re looking for a meal that goes beyond food and is steeped in Italian tradition, this is the place to be.